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Ditto Press publish new book full of skinhead ephemera collected by London punk and culture historian Toby Mott. Growing up as a punk in London in the late 70s and early 80s, Toby was not so much a part of skinhead subculture as a punchbag for it, but — fascinated by its crude and immediate energy — he absorbed the ephemera around gigs like a sponge. We caught up with Toby to find out what exactly skinhead was all about and why it continues to fascinate culture heads. When you were collecting this material from gigs did you know it was special? Was it only looking back through that material that you realised you had this coherent body of skinhead stuff?

Gay skinhead

Gay skinhead

Gay skinhead

Gay skinhead

Gay skinhead

And I think in a way that appealed to the gay sklnhead when they subverted it. This article includes a list of referencesrelated reading Gay mpeg vids external linksbut Gay skinhead ksinhead remain unclear because it lacks inline citations. They definitely had a place within that culture, and a very distinct look. Even by 78 there was a very, very austere and rigid set of rules that you bought Gay skinhead if you were a skinhead. There are a lot of factors in their decline as folk devils.

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A gay skinhead , also known as a gayskin or queerskin , is a gay person who identifies with the skinhead subculture , sometimes though not necessarily out of sexual interest.

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  • A gay skinhead , also known as a gayskin or queerskin , is a gay person who identifies with the skinhead subculture , sometimes though not necessarily out of sexual interest.
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Spare a thought for the poor old skinhead. Has any youth cult ever been so denuded of its menace? Teddy boys, perhaps, or punks, but there was always something silly and peacocky about them, which isn't something you can say about the skins, whose look was built for what used to be called bovver.

There are a lot of factors in their decline as folk devils. The adoption of the close crop as the balding gentleman's default haircut.

The appropriation of the skinhead look by gay men: I live in Brighton and can say with a degree of certainty that the only way most skinheads resident here are going to terrorise fellow inhabitants is by playing the Calamity Jane soundtrack too loud.

Then there's the world of fashion, which keeps nicking bits of the skinhead image and sending them down the catwalks: it's hard to be threatened by something modelled by a finely cheekboned teenager called Alonzo. After reappropriating Doc Marten boots — "reappropriating" is a fashion term meaning "charging quid for something identical to" — they've done the same with bleach-spattered jeans, de rigueur for the early 80s skin, recently spotted at the Dries Van Noten menswear show.

It's bound to find its way to the high street: you'll be able to spot the shops that stock them by the skinheads weeping as they pass. T-shirt and sneakers, Alexis's own. Photograph: David Newby for the Guardian. Styling: Priscilla Kwateng. This article contains affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission if a reader clicks through and makes a purchase. All our journalism is independent and is in no way influenced by any advertiser or commercial initiative.

By clicking on an affiliate link, you accept that third-party cookies will be set. More information. Topics Men's fashion Alexis Petridis on fashion. Reuse this content. Most popular.

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Gay skinhead

Gay skinhead

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Most skinheads who are gay do not fetishize the skinhead image. These individuals may prefer not to be referred to as gayskins because of the sexual connotations — and they may not associate with self-identified gayskins for the same reason, but to traditional skinhead culture.

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Ditto Press publish new book full of skinhead ephemera collected by London punk and culture historian Toby Mott. Growing up as a punk in London in the late 70s and early 80s, Toby was not so much a part of skinhead subculture as a punchbag for it, but — fascinated by its crude and immediate energy — he absorbed the ephemera around gigs like a sponge.

We caught up with Toby to find out what exactly skinhead was all about and why it continues to fascinate culture heads. When you were collecting this material from gigs did you know it was special? Was it only looking back through that material that you realised you had this coherent body of skinhead stuff? So then I got together with Ditto and we went through the material and saw that there was a story be told just using that material and not using a voice from outside trying to explain what it was.

In what ways was it different from punk? Punk was pretty sophisticated and I guess, with Britain being such a class-based society, it was pretty middle class. People had the language of Dada and they knew the references they were making like John Heartfield and collage and all that sort of Cabaret Voltaire stuff.

Whereas skinhead, you could really say was an authentic voice of the working class. And they rejected any kind of academia or artsy education. It is really quite distinctly different. But they employed the same means of reproduction, like xerox. There was an openly racist element to skinhead. The gay community co-opted the skinhead look, which is an interesting dynamic. They took the image of the oppressor — because skinheads were, on the majority, racist and homophobic although it seems under that surface some of the skinheads were actually gay, like one of the foremost right-wing skinheads Nicky Crane who eventually came out — and in the 80s there was this re-identifying and young gay men dressed as skinheads.

Or do you think it was a moment in history that has passed? I like to look at these things purely as if we were looking at Roundheads and Cavaliers or something. I like to look at these things from a sort of safe distance.

Why do you think it has such an enduring appeal though? Even punk, even at the time, in , it was grabbed by popular culture, and was on Top of the Pops or whatever. But skinhead never really had that.

And it never did manage to move into art school or coolness like that, even when it entered into the gay subculture, it never really went overground.

Do you think things like This Is England pushes it into the mainstream more? Where did the actual fashion come from — polos, braces, DMs? Initially it was quite loose, in around It was quite a loose like, which you can see in the book.

And everything was kind of prescribed — how many eyelets in your boots, the width of your braces, very particular brands you could wear. Even by 78 there was a very, very austere and rigid set of rules that you bought into if you were a skinhead. And I think in a way that appealed to the gay community when they subverted it. Also, I would never say it was a fashion, it was an identity. It was always anti-fashion. And it was never fashionable, as in it was never a high-street look. You had to seek it out from small, underground shops.

It was never above ground. Do you feel like the archive is complete? No I always add to it if I find something of interest. The other day I found some Weetabix skinhead badges!

In the 80s they did a whole television campaign with Weetabix, using skinheads. So there are always new bits and bobs that come in. Did you have many altercations with skinheads? Most of my experiences with skinheads were negative. Just like being beaten up at a Sham 59 concert — just because I was a punk. There were girl skinheads too. What was it like for them? Yeah, very much so. It was just about where you grew up, it was very much a sort of council estate thing.

They definitely had a place within that culture, and a very distinct look. In a way do you think girl skinheads were more empowered within that subculture than within wider culture at the time? Oh yeah definitely. Do you think you see that less now? More will be revealed as and when! Share this The onus is on the punk community to treat Tom Gabel's new gender with respect. But how well has it treated women in the past? HUCK takes a stroll into the bucolic English countryside to visit the commune-style home of anarcho-punk band Crass, pioneers of direct action sound.

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Gay skinhead

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