Home tanning leather instruction-How to tan leather yourself? - fiddley.com - The Leather Dictionary

Like many modern homesteaders, I keep rabbits for meat. However, unlike most small-scale breeders who consign their animals' pelts to compost piles , I also save the hides, tan them, and use the fur to make beautiful hand-sewn items. In fact, it's a source of both pride and great satisfaction, since it enables me to create beautiful, useful fur articles from skins that would otherwise have been discarded. You probably know that tanning which is also called tawing or pickling is the process of converting a raw hide into leather, thus making the skin more pliable, more durable, and more resistant to water, wear, and decay. You may be surprised to learn, though, that home tanning costs very little and requires a minimum of equipment.

Home tanning leather instruction

Home tanning leather instruction

Home tanning leather instruction

After the hide has dried and is sufficiently soft, give the fur a good brushing with a small Home tanning leather instruction. Additional information Tanning leather Tannins Chrome tanned Vegetable-tanned leather Synthetic tanned Chamois leather Tawing with alum Brain tanning Videos about the leather production. The things you will need are Reply Upvote. Personally, unless you did the work and can show it, you shouldn't be posting an ible. To tan hair-off: e. In any case, you should thoroughly study them and carefully observe all regulations on safety, as well as disposal.

Teenage abortion theries. Step 2: Fleshing the Pelt

Blog Glossary. Leather Scratch Repair. If you plan to use the hide to make clothing, add a box of baking soda to Home tanning leather instruction rinse to neutralize the remaining acid. Many people find hairless Home tanning leather instruction easier to take care of than fur. Add the brown bran liquid. Perhaps try salting the hides well, drying them and storing them in a dry place. Salt the hide. After fleshing, immediately lay the hide in the shade on a tarp and cover it with three to five pounds of salt. Try using Borax laundry detergent. Build a small, smoky fire inside the bag to Hot bleach sex xxx the skin. This will cause slippage of the fur. To learn how to soften the hide and how to smoke it, read on!

The tanning process is the most important step in the production of leather.

  • People have used leather to make clothing, containers for carrying dry goods and liquids, harnesses, bridles, saddles, shoes and a multitude of other products for a very long time.
  • After hunting or processing livestock for the table, it's a shame to have to toss out a nice pelt.
  • The Complete Home Tanning Kit will give you the tools and knowledge necessary to finish a hide with a beautiful hair-on or leather tan.
  • If you hunt deer and other animals for their meat, why not use their hides as well?
  • Leather and animal hide tanning permanently changes the collagen fibers in the leather and makes it resistant to rot and the effects of water.
  • Share useful tips on home improvement.

Like many modern homesteaders, I keep rabbits for meat. However, unlike most small-scale breeders who consign their animals' pelts to compost piles , I also save the hides, tan them, and use the fur to make beautiful hand-sewn items. In fact, it's a source of both pride and great satisfaction, since it enables me to create beautiful, useful fur articles from skins that would otherwise have been discarded.

You probably know that tanning which is also called tawing or pickling is the process of converting a raw hide into leather, thus making the skin more pliable, more durable, and more resistant to water, wear, and decay. You may be surprised to learn, though, that home tanning costs very little and requires a minimum of equipment.

In fact, you'll find that your biggest investments in the craft will be your time and energy. The availability, convenient small size, and variable colors, patterns, and textures of rabbit skins make them perfect material for the novice tanner.

Before I describe in detail how to tan a rabbit hide, bear in mind this important point: No tanning formula is foolproof. There are no shortcuts to learning this skill. You'll need to practice, practice, practice! However, I'm not a professional furrier. I'm only a homesteader raising some rabbits to help keep my family supplied with meat and extra cash.

So take heart: If I can tan pelts, so can you. As most breeders are already aware, once a rabbit has been killed and the head removed, it is suspended by one or both back legs to allow the blood to drain. Thus hung, the animal is then flayed , which is a term referring to the act of removing the hide from the carcass.

To perform this task, simply cut the skin around each hind foot and carefully slit or tear the hide inside each leg from hock to anus be careful not to slice into the meat. Strip the skin from the carcass by gently pulling downward toward the rabbit's head the motion is somewhat like that used when peeling a banana but a bit more force will be required. Use your fingers or a sharp skinning knife to loosen any difficult spots. The freshly flayed hide which is known as a "green" skin is now cased , or sleeve-pulled , to put the fur on the inside and the flesh on the outside.

Let the cased pelt soak in cold water while you finish dressing out the carcass and storing the meat in your refrigerator or freezer. Once the butchering duties are finished, thoroughly rinse the hide in more cold water to finish cooling it as quickly as possible. Don't worry about any remaining fat and tissue at this point.

Rather, apply your effort to washing away all the blood left in the skin, since any that's not removed will leave permanent brown stains in the leather after tanning. Soap or detergent is really unnecessary, but if you do use such a cleanser, be sure that all traces of that are rinsed out before you proceed, too.

With the rinsing done, carefully squeeze never wring! As an alternative, you can clean skins in your washer use the delicate cycle, if your machine has one , but there is a possibility that bits of fat and hair will plug up the drain hose. To avoid this problem, I prefer to hand wash the pelts which also gives me a chance to examine the furs closely. Thoroughly cleaned hides can be preserved for later processing by freezing; drying on a stretcher, or salting and drying.

I store my pelts in the freezer if I have more than I can comfortably work on at one time. Before freezing them, though, I make sure that all the body heat is cooled from the skins, and that the excess water has been pressed out.

Then I wrap the hides in freezer paper — or store them in airtight containers — to prevent dehydration and freezer burn. A hide can be opened up — that is, split from head to tail along the belly's midline — at any time during the tanning operation, but I prefer to wait until the process is complete to do this. When the pelts are clean and cooled or have been defrosted, if you've been sidetracked for a while , you're ready to begin tanning.

You'll first need to round up a four- to six-gallon plastic container a wastebasket or bucket will work fine. Each formula will be adequate to tan six to nine medium-sized pelts.

And larger quantities usually pound sacks are available from chemical companies and other sources at "bargain" bulk prices. Alum is stocked by biological supply companies, handicraft and leather shops, chemical suppliers, pharmacies, and feed stores. I've never worked with full-strength sulfuric acid, because I feel it's too dangerous. Both recipes work well and take approximately the same amount of time.

I prefer the somewhat more expensive alum mixture because it produces a whiter, softer leather with the feel of fine suede. Once you've determined which method you're going to use, add the chemicals to the water don't let them splash.

Make sure the powders are completely dissolved before you add the pelts. Be certain to show respect for your chemicals and to handle them properly. Wear rubber gloves if you're working with sulfuric acid. Now, drop each skin into the pickle as the tanning mix is called and swish it around with a wooden stick or spoon or use your glove-sheathed hands to work the solution into the fur and skin.

If the pelts tend to float to the top of the solution, weigh them down using a glass jug filled with water or a clean rock. After the two full days have passed, squeeze the excess brine from the skins save the solution, you'll reuse it later and rinse them in cold water. Fleshing is the process of removing the fatty tissue and flesh to expose the actual leather or derma to chemical action.

Rabbits have a clearly defined undertissue which, after the first chemical soaking, can be peeled off in one piece if you're careful. Since the flesh separates most readily at the rump section, I usually start there and peel toward the neck. A steak knife can be used to scrape and loosen the difficult areas you'll likely encounter on the belly and around the legs.

Be careful not to peel too deep and expose the root hairs, but do try to get off as much fatty tissue as possible. When you're finished, rinse the fleshed hides in cool water and then squeeze out the excess liquid.

Put the pelts in the liquid, one at a time, working each hide thoroughly to coat it with the pickle. Keep the skins soaking at room temperature for seven days, stirring them at least twice a day. You can test for tanning "doneness" after the week's up by simply boiling a small piece of hide for a few minutes in water. If the leather curls up and becomes hard and rubbery, return the pelt to the solution. A well-tanned skin will show little or no change in boiling water.

After one pelt has tested "done," remove all of them from the solution and squeeze out the excess pickle. The tanning brine will likely be pretty much used up if you've soaked the recommended number of skins, but any liquid that does remain should be dumped out. Take care to discard the mixture where farm animals can't drink it and the chemicals won't contaminate drinking water.

Although it's not poisonous to handle, the brew might be fatal if taken internally. I generally pour any leftover solution along pathways to keep them free of weeds. Next, wash each pelt thoroughly with a mild detergent. I use an inexpensive cologne-scented shampoo that leaves the fur soft, fluffy, clean, and sweet smelling.

Then rinse the hide several times in lukewarm water and squeeze out the excess liquid. Hang the pelts in the shade to dry I usually put them on a temporary clothesline suspended over the bathtub.

It'll take from six hours to two days for the skins to become fully dried, depending on the temperature, the humidity, and the thickness of the leather. Don't ever put wet hides in direct sun or near a heat source, as they'll quickly shrink and become brittle as they dry. When the pelts are just barely damp, toss them in an electric dryer, with no heat, for 15 to 45 minutes. This step can be omitted, but the machine fluffing does make the fur easier to work with and the next procedure less difficult.

Ever since animal hides were first turned into leather, they've been pounded, rubbed, chewed, and beaten — and often anointed with grease or oils — to make and keep them flexible and soft. I stretch partially dried hides to soften the leather, using a process known as breaking the skin. Pull the skin of your damp pelt in all directions, working only a small area at a time.

The leather will begin to turn soft and white. The trick is to catch the hide while it's still slightly wet and limp. If it becomes too dry and turns hard, resoak it with a wet sponge this is called damping back until it's pliable enough to stretch again. Be firm as you pull the leather, but don't use too much force, or you might tear it.

Keep up the skin-breaking procedure as long as necessary until the pelt remains soft as it dries. After the hide has dried and is sufficiently soft, give the fur a good brushing with a small hairbrush. Then massage mink oil I buy it at shoe stores. You'll be glad to know that mink oil is a wonderful hand conditioner.

As a final, optional step, try buffing the leather with pumice or fine sandpaper to give it a soft, velvety feel. Rabbit fur, like all leathers, breathes; that is, it contains microscopic spaces for air circulation. Therefore, it's best not to store rabbit pelts or any other fur or leather in airtight containers except, of course, when you're freezing them before tanning.

I keep my finished hides in a cardboard box with a bar of sweet-smelling soap, which repels insects and helps to scent the furs. Although the procedure itself is simple enough, really successful pelt tanning is usually the result of ingenuity and perseverance. The secret is not so much the chemicals used as it is the elbow grease that you apply to make the hides soft and supple. Keep in mind that each piece of leather is different. And even among hides that were all tanned in the same batch of solution, something will occasionally go wrong with one or more of the skins.

The problem I encounter most often is hairslip : bare patches that appear as the fur pulls or slips off the leather. This condition, which is also called taint , results from the growth of bacteria on the outer skin decay and usually occurs in folds and wrinkles, where the surface wasn't exposed to the tanning solution. It can be prevented if you stir the pelts around in the solution frequently and make sure that the liquid comes in contact with all parts of each hide.

Take care, too, that the brine ingredients are dissolved and mixed well before adding the skins. If hairslip does afflict a pelt or two, however, you can trim away the damaged sections when constructing garments or other articles.

The tanning technique I've described here is a simplified version of chemical tanning. There are also vegetable and oil tanning methods, neither of which is well suited to preserving rabbit skins. Most of the other chemical processes in use today would require additional equipment, extra labor, and complicated ingredients. In general, these systems involve the application of a paste or powder common ingredients might include alum, acids, sodas, salts, animal brains and livers, oils, and vegetable tannins to the fleshed skin.

Let it dry out for a few days to prepare it for the tanning process. Remove all flesh and fat from the hide before salting it. Add the brown bran liquid. It is a water soluble oil that will make the hide soft and supple without leaving the hide greasy or oily feeling. When the hide is dry, scrape the hair off so the tanning solution can soak into the skin more easily. If you wait more than a few hours, the hide will begin to decompose, and it will fall apart during the tanning process.

Home tanning leather instruction

Home tanning leather instruction

Home tanning leather instruction

Home tanning leather instruction

Home tanning leather instruction. Salting Fresh Skins

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Hide Tanning Instructions | Gone Outdoors | Your Adventure Awaits

The tanning process is the most important step in the production of leather. It preserves the animal skins in order to prevent them from decomposing. There is a lot of information about tanning on the internet and a lot of tanning instruction literature. In any case, you should thoroughly study them and carefully observe all regulations on safety, as well as disposal. Tanning leather in a tannery generally produces better results than home tanning.

Thick leather can only be split with a splitting machine and also all other tannery machines and drums cannot be easily replaced by manual work. This information is not enough to be able to get started without the help of somebody experienced.

There are often different ways of how to proceed. Depending on the skin size, animal type, whether with or without hair, many different methods can be attempted.

The leather production in a modern tannery. The brain tanning process. Navigation menu Personal tools Log in. How to tan leather yourself? From www. Jump to: navigation , search. The first step is to acquire the skins to be tanned. Please note the following: Many rangers and hunters do not use the skin. It's waste for them. Therefore, ask if you can get useful skins.

Wild breeders, slaughterhouses or butchers can also help. The skins should be as free from natural markings and be as undamaged as possible. Often hides are cut wrong and have too many holes for good leather. Therefore, as far as possible, check for damages such as cuts, skin diseases or other imperfections. The hides must be very fresh, so that the decay process has not yet started.

Further preparations Select the place of tanning. Outside or in a shed, a garage etc. Ensure a plentiful source of water is readily available nearby. Tanning is wet and dirty. Choose suitable clothing boots, apron, gloves and work at temperatures that are not too hot or too cold to make the work enjoyable.

Dispose of residues. This prevents stench and does not attract insects or other vermin. Additional information Tanning leather Tannins Chrome tanned Vegetable-tanned leather Synthetic tanned Chamois leather Tawing with alum Brain tanning Videos about the leather production. Categories : All Articles Leather production.

Storage - soaking - liming - fleshing - splitting - pickling - tanning - neutralising - withering - sorting - shaving - dyeing through colouring and fatliquoring - drying - finish - softening - final check. Chrome tanning - Vegetable-tanned leather - Synthetic tanning - Tanning with fats and oils.

Home tanning leather instruction

Home tanning leather instruction

Home tanning leather instruction