Inexpensive tweaks that can improve the presentation of your speakers. We at Madisound are often asked about what is the best way to upgrade older or vintage loudspeakers. In fact there are many ways to improve on sound, whether perceived as too dull, too bright or boomy, or not enough dynamics, for some examples. Loudspeakers vary greatly in build quality, from the drive units, cabinets, and wiring to the internal electrical parts. Rather than spending thousands of dollars to achieve results, we will suggest some simpler and less expensive solutions involving some straightforward modifications that almost anyone can make.
While you are inside the cabinet, inspect damping, insulation, wiring and terminals. Very Restorable cosmetically. Very Heavy- 50lbs each. Social Facebook Yelp! Cable does not sound inherently better or worse in and of itself but its effect on results may be dramatic.
Breast bow. Покупки по категориям
Woofers URGH We will sometimes post photos of less 'unique' parts, if there is a greater chance of them being available in multiple quantities, or on a more 'repeat' basis. Knobs all good. Cloth Surround. Coated accordion Surround. That torque can be enough to damage the crystal membrane and we're not aware of a 'fix'. SOLD OUT Occasionally this switch Pioneer vintage speaker parts be designed with 'duplicate' terminals on the other side which allows the switch to be inverted for a 'fresh' set of contacts. Most folks get that. Coated paper. Stamped steel frame, Ceramic magnet, pulp cone, Blue finish, 'vented' dust cap, 'red' coated cloth Blonde redhead nyc iv. Can easily be bi-amped as well. The 2SC's are bad. Amps and Pre-Amps. Reel - Reel Decks. Cast aluminum frame.
Purveyors of Electronic, Musical and Vintage goods from then, now and in between.
- Purveyors of Electronic, Musical and Vintage goods from then, now and in between.
- Purveyors of Electronic, Musical and Vintage goods from then, now and in between.
- Purveyors of Electronic, Musical and Vintage goods from then, now and in between.
Inexpensive tweaks that can improve the presentation of your speakers. We at Madisound are often asked about what is the best way to upgrade older or vintage loudspeakers.
In fact there are many ways to improve on sound, whether perceived as too dull, too bright or boomy, or not enough dynamics, for some examples. Loudspeakers vary greatly in build quality, from the drive units, cabinets, and wiring to the internal electrical parts. Rather than spending thousands of dollars to achieve results, we will suggest some simpler and less expensive solutions involving some straightforward modifications that almost anyone can make.
The purpose of this guide is not to address loudspeaker design or crossover theory but to rather offer some inexpensive tweaks that can improve the presentation of your speakers. Over time, loudspeaker components tend to decay. Many loudspeakers over twenty years old contain parts that have either decayed over time or were of poor quality in the first place.
Organic materials in the drivers can dry rot while many types of capacitors can dry out and lose their effectiveness. Upgrading woofers for example can increase the bass response and power handling of your system. However once you are at the point of replacing all drivers and electrical components, it may not be practical and you might be better off just starting from scratch, which could save time and money in the long run.
It really depends at that point how much you like the original cabinets, and what condition they are in and if they used good quality materials. Madisound offers many brands of replacement loudspeakers and crossover parts. How difficult these modifications will be depends on how easy it is to gain access to the cabinet interior. Access is usually gained by removing the largest drive-unit. Again, if your goal is to upgrade the loudspeakers with higher quality drivers, you should first consider whether the quality of the cabinets and crossovers is worth the cost of the new drivers.
It may be more cost-effective to build a new loudspeaker system. Many older crossovers used cheaper parts such as electrolytic caps which tend to lose their effectiveness over time. Non-polar electrolytics are known to age or dry out over time and adhesives can lose their grip.
Note: When a capacitor begins to dry out it is losing its wetting agent. This causes its value to diminish and its equivalent series resistance ESR to increase until it is no longer passing any signal. This can happen slowly or over time and may go unnoticed until gone completely. Upgrading to better parts in the signal path will improve overall resolution and transparency of the network, resulting in better performance of the loudspeaker. Important to note: it is the components in series with the drivers that are the important ones to look at for upgrading.
Suggested upgrades include the Mundorf and ClarityCap brands , which make excellent upgrade for hi-pass caps on tweeters. The Goertz copper foil inductors are ideal for low-pass inductors.
Please see our web site for more detail on these brands. Even when new, many lower grade electrolytics have a large ESR. So when you replace with a film type you may notice the levels have changed and some attenuation is needed. Some caution is needed when replacing the coils.
Throwing copper and money at the woofer may not make things better. Sometimes when forced to use coils with high direct current resistance DCR , the manufacturer used that to their advantage in the bass alignment.
Replacing with a lower DCR coil could result in thin bass, or it could come alive. In the shunt circuits parallel parts , best to leave the original inductors as is. Changing to too low a DCR can change the Q of the roll off and make the tweeter or midrange sound harsh.
That may be an issue if it is an older speaker that you are updating. Once you know the value of a component, that is the resistor, capacitor or inductor, you should be able to buy a replacement. Replacing crossover parts is fairly straightforward in most cases. First you must remove the existing component, typically hardwired to each other or soldered to the back of the speaker terminals or mounted on a circuit board.
The new components are then soldered in position. Keep in mind the better grade parts tend to be physically larger due to higher working voltages and thicker film. Always ensure you have room on the original circuit board and inside the loudspeaker, if they are internally mounted, as most are.
Sometimes the component values will be clearly marked but if not, you will need a network schematic for the crossover. It is possible in many cases to upgrade to better quality loudspeaker drivers.
However, once you go beyond simply replacing a tweeter or woofer to a completely new driver complement, the original crossover network, being designed for different drivers, is unlikely to integrate the new drivers properly. At that point, you are perilously close to a complete rebuild. No longer a simple upgrade at that point! Variables that affect driver replacement include basket size, cone or dome materials, voltage sensitivity, impedance, and so on.
Please refer to our Madisound retrofits page for general guidelines on woofer replacement. Midranges and tweeter replacement tends to be more complicated. Sometimes it is possible and practical to repair the surrounds of the original woofers. It is best to consult with one of our salespersons if you are unsure about this.
This may not always be practical, especially on smaller cabinets, but nevertheless consider adding bracing as a possible upgrade. Typically adding internal bracing will improve stability and reduce box resonance. Most large subwoofer enclosures are internally braced for stability. Internal cross-bracing becomes more important as the box volume increases.
There are really two things to look at here. It is not unusual for older or vintage loudspeakers to be poorly insulated by modern standards. Cheap fiberglass or other materials can be easily replaced with more absorptive products. These sheets can easily be cut to size and installed with spray adhesive.
A higher-tech material made in the U. These products can be used in conjunction with each other or exclusively. The better lined the box, the better your results. The rear wall behind the largest drivers is critical to damp, as that is where the large back wave from the drivers wants to reflect or splash, muddying your bass response. For loose fill, typically one-half pound per cubic foot of internal volume is a good guideline especially for subwoofers.
Small loudspeakers may only need a few handfuls behind the woofer. We recommend Acousta-Stuf or Wool for this purpose.
This is highly subjective of course. A subwoofer box simulator like Bass Box Pro can be helpful to determine the effects of fill quantity on bass response. Madisound's damping materials. Updating cheap, generic internal cable is fairly simple and can give good results in conjunction with other upgrades. We use this cable extensively for Madisound kits and recommend this brand for wiring upgrades for all loudspeaker applications.
Your signal path does not end at the speaker either, of course. Supra is good for external wiring as well and available in a variety of gauges and jacket types, whatever your application. Cable does not sound inherently better or worse in and of itself but its effect on results may be dramatic. Good cable should be low in resistance and inductance, and reasonably low in capacitance.
Keep cable runs as short as possible and avoid looping excess cable as this may increase inductance. What is important in speaker cables is how you terminate them.
You want to make certain that you have the best connection of the cable to your amp and loudspeaker to minimize contact resistance. Which brings us to the next point, terminals. Common sense is required when it comes to the physical weight pulling on tweeter and midrange terminals. There is really no need for 12 AWG or heavier cable on a tweeter or small midrange.
Your signal path is only as good as its weakest link. Upgrading to good quality metal binding posts can make a difference. Mundorf and WBT offer some extremely high-end posts. Loose binding posts can also be purchased on our web site. Get rid of those plastic tabs and put in some good quality copper or brass posts. Often the low-pass and hi-pass sections will be on separate circuit boards. There is no clear evidence that bi-wiring improves sound quality but if you have the means to bi-wire, you can try it and see if it works in your system.
Note that some crossover designs cannot be split for bi-wiring. It should be clear either way when you physically examine them. In many cases this does significantly improve sound quality. Often two cheaper amplifiers used in a bi-amping arrangement can outperform a single expensive amplifier.
In general, it is best to avoid placing loudspeakers in corners or near walls, especially side walls. Listener location greatly affects matters as well. Placement in a given room typically requires moving the loudspeakers around to find the best place for them. In general, placing loudspeakers further away from walls, especially rear walls, tends to reduce bass output and improve imaging and vice versa.
In some cases you will find loudspeakers designed to be placed near rear walls, but that may not work in your room. Once you think you've found the best position you need to consider how the speakers are placed on the stands.
One of our consignors recently purchased a pair from an ebay seller that " are in working condition, not blown ". All in all, they're perfect. Forth, the 'condition' of the part. They are crossed over at 12, cycles and 'there ain't a lot typically go'in on up there' in most recordings, and not likely at a level sufficient to do much harm. Coated pulp cone.
Pioneer vintage speaker parts. Products 
Replacement Speakers, Woofers, Midranges, Tweeters, Parts for Speaker Repair and Replacement
Purveyors of Electronic, Musical and Vintage goods from then, now and in between. Since Only if we do not have a "viable" unit in yet, either already in process or in line to be processed, that may potentially need parts from a "parts unit", will we release available parts for sale even though they may appear as available for sale to the public.
As many of you know, the restoration of a unit can be a long, time consuming process. We may "lock up" parts that we may potentially need in the restoration of a unit and not necessarily get it marked 'Hold' or 'Sold' on the site right away. Parts Photos ; We get a number of requests for 'photos' of a specific part. Unfortunately, in most cases that is not practical as the amount of time involved in posting that exceeds the value of the 'unique' part.
We will sometimes post photos of less 'unique' parts, if there is a greater chance of them being available in multiple quantities, or on a more 'repeat' basis. Thirdly, the 'rarity' of the part. Forth, the 'condition' of the part. Fifth, the difficulty to extract the part, or success rate for extracting certain parts. Shipping : Shipping on most 'small' parts if typically via Postal first class or Postal Priority for both domestic USA and international orders.
Larger parts such as transformers and drivers speakers are typically via FedEx gnd. Due to their size and required packing supplies, the cost of 'packing for safe transit' and shipping are commonly 'disproportionate' to their cost, typically nearly equal to and sometimes greater than the cost of the part.
Think about it. An empty speaker cabinet or stereo receiver case is essentially the same size as a complete one. Yes the weight will be less, but most of items that size are calculated on 'dimensional weight', not actual weight so are commonly just as expensive as shipping a 'complete unit'. Secondly empty component cabinets have to be packed to disallow breakage, typically requiring nearly as much packing materials as an entire unit. Speaker grills have to be 'sandwiched' between foam sheets in large, custom ordered boxes all relatively expensive.
It is what it is Most folks get that. Again, the parts are first for the restoration of our units and secondarily for the public market. Since we list the parts available for ourselves, it is not much effort to modify the menu's for web publication, which in turn makes the reference information and occasionally the part available to the public. Frankly, publishing them to the web, in many instances, makes it easier for us to determine if we have the part for our needs as well.
The alternative to all of the above would be to not offer them at all to the public, however most parts are available to the public for sale.
Also, parts requests can occasionally take time for us to respond to. Sometimes we just can't figure out which cabinet or drawer parts were assigned to and we're working on a system for that one. Again, we simply do not have the time resources to do that.
Our time must be utilized on the requests we can fulfill. Sorry for all the excuses, but that's how the 'system' or lack thereof works. And, i f you don't see it, we likely don't have it. Thank you for your understanding. NOT 'Subwoofers'!!!
PWA 1 5 " - 8 U 0 Reference information only. None currently for sale, but more MAY occasionally show up. Check back periodically. Pulp cone. Cast Frame. Accordion paper surround.
Ceramic Magnet. AlNiCo magnet. Stamped Frame. Pulp cone and dust cap. Treated cloth surround. Good Cond. Sufficient for 'plugging a hole' and getting 'OK' sound. Aluminum horn. Good cond. Works well. Connector broken off, so lacquer wires need 'micro-surgery' to reconnect.
We have the connector, but it will also need to be epoxied on. VC still good and works. Input connectors sold separately. Just FYI. They end up being a disproportionate amount of money, relative to their purchase price, for packing and shipping, as they essentially require the same amount of packing for safe transit. Pioneer utilized foam surrounds on the tweeters of these 4 models. The tweeter just to the left is from the CSa. Looks good, but surround is rotted. A visibly fine surround, is still bad and will visibly deteriorate after a few songs are played on them.
We see these at on-line auctions often, and in every case the speakers either still have their rotted originals or a replacement tweeter, of some-sort installed. Any manufacturers' speaker utilizing foam surrounds common from typically thru present that is over 10 years old should be suspect. Even though a speakers foam surrounds may "look" fine , they probably are not! In many cases, once you start playing them more than a couple minutes, you can watch the foam disintegrate especially on the woofer right before your eyes, just by playing 2 or 3 songs at above average volume levels.
Again, we have done no tests yet. Just FYI while you're out looking. Bolt pattern same as CSa U 0 Reference information only. Believe it or not it still has good surround. Good Cond.. With Attenuators and attenuator knobs. Frame and VC good, but paper 'kicked-in'. Dust cap removed. Same woofer and Tweeter parts. HPA -1 1. The "B" version has a body that is approx 7mm thick. While most 'home audio' speaker 'tweeters' and 'super tweeters' are fairly 'fragile' when compared to the lower frequency drivers in a speaker system, the super tweeters in Pioneer HPM series speakers are pretty 'robust'.
Much of that 'robustness' is a bit 'perceived' however, as the chance of them getting much recorded material is fairly low, due to their crossover point.
They are crossed over at 12, cycles and 'there ain't a lot typically go'in on up there' in most recordings, and not likely at a level sufficient to do much harm. I'm not saying you can't damage them with too much 'brute force' or more likely from clipping an amplifier, but it's not as likely as you might think.
Due to most recorded music not having a lot of material in that frequency range, that's very strong in level compared to the rest of the frequencies that are likely happening at the same time, it can be difficult to actually hear or perceive the 'super tweeters' functioning, which is why many people assume they are not working or are 'blown'. The best way to test them is with 'Pink Noise' or 'White Noise'. These are random noise generations hiss that are generally displaying all frequencies at the same time.
There are a number of sources for either. You could own or invest in a 'Pink' or 'White' noise generator. Not really necessary for the average person.
Much less expensive, but still not generally necessary for the 'average Joe'. A ready source for 'White Noise' is something most folks have access to and that is an FM tuner.
Most FM tuners allow you to disable the 'FM Muting' which will allow the tuner to pass the 'hiss' in between stations.
This is one of the first tests we do especially out in the field to determine the 'general health' of a speaker system. Turn down both the 'Mid Freq' attenuator and the 'High Freq' attenuator no, the super tweeter is not tied to the attenuator. IF you have fairly decent hearing, and your super tweeter is functioning, you should hear a fairly faint hiss emanating from the HPM super tweeter.
It won't be particularly strong, and no where near as strong as what comes from the 'cone tweeter'. Certainly by about '9'Oclock' on the volume you should hear some 'hiss' coming from them. If not, there is further testing that can be done, but it requires removing the super tweeters, either to distance them from the other drivers, or 'bench testing' them individually, but that is probably too risky to the health of the super tweeter if it is still a 'functioning unit' for the purpose of this writing Most parts are different.
Please read and compare the part numbers carefully prior to calling in for an order. Repaired small tear. Functions fine. HP B-1 1. While the super tweeters from the HPM, HPM and HPM appear to be interchangeable, the terminals are spaced differently on the two and you may need to modify the wire access hole to fit.